Beer Traps

Considering their small size and slow speed, slugs and snails can do amazingly large amounts of damage in just one night.  

Freshly planted vegetable and flower seedlings are no match for their voracious appetites and even established plants can have entire leaves reduced to mush, ruining their appearance and setting your temper off in a ‘five alarm’ kind of way. It’s almost embarrassing to find that something half the size of your finger can make you the kind of mad that is usually associated with flashing lights and an arrest record.  

There are many products on the market to help control slugs and snails. There are chemical products, natural products and organic products in all shapes and sizes. You can buy them in powder form, granular form and spray form. There are systemic products that have a residual effect offering long term control and there are products that are natural and organic but require regular applications throughout the season.  

I have spoken before about using a systemic product called ‘Tree and Shrub Drench’ and in my case I use this product almost exclusively to control biting/chewing/sucking pests in my garden. My schedule is the major factor in my decision but before holding the position I do now I used beer traps often to control slugs and snails in my yard.  

Beer traps are not new; in fact they have been around for many years. More than ten years ago I was introduced to beer traps by a customer who was then in her 60’s and she had been using them herself for most of her 40 year gardening career. Over the last eight years or so, organic and sustainable gardening have been spotlighted, and people are becoming more interested than ever in using gardening techniques that are better for us, our plants and our environment.  

Beer traps are easy to make and inexpensive to maintain. For the beer lovers out there I can assure you that the cheapest and nastiest beers will still do the job, and you can keep your flashy beer in your fridge just for you, and your football mates if you’re the generous kind. 

 

Follow these simple steps and you can have a wonderfully successful and inexpensive control for slugs and snails. 

1.    Purchase the cheapest beer you can find. Of course, if you are a gourmet through and through you may also purchase high end beer so that your slugs and snails leave this earthly realm in a top shelf stupor.  

2.    Using Mason/Ball jar lids or shallow dishes of any kind, place them around the plants that are already showing damage or those you wish to protect from damage. 

3.    Set the lids/dishes into the ground so that the edges are slightly below the natural ground level.  

4.    Fill each lid/dish with beer so that the liquid level is just below the rim. 

5.    These traps should be set just before dark, or if your house/landscape lighting allows, just after dark. 

6.    In the morning you can throw the dead slugs/snails into the trash can, rinse the lids and then wait until the evening to set them out again.

 

It is worth noting that often I found that the damage to my plants was lessening but I was not finding any slugs or snails in my traps. I attributed this to early morning birds that picked off the slugs and snails hours before any sane person was out of bed.  

If you are not finding any slugs or snails and the damage is continuing, then try moving your traps slightly as a small move of 3-5” can make all the difference. If you already have damage  then try to find the silvery trails they leave behind and place the traps along the trails as close to the plants as possible.  

Finally, if there are any bird lovers out there who are upset that I am feeding beer drugged slugs and snails to wild birds I apologize, however I look at this as a “two birds, one stone” scenario – drunk birds sleep later and swoop less. 

Pun intended.

Canna Lily

Love them or hate them, canna lilies are stunning, especially when in flower. If you are trying to achieve a tropical feel in your landscape, the canna lily will give you the best of both worlds with broad tropical looking foliage topped with brightly colored flowers.  

Canna lilies seem to have a bad reputation with words such as ‘messy’, ‘invasive’ and ‘bug magnets’ often the reasons that customers are reluctant to add one to their landscape. While I can’t argue with the bug magnet part of their reputation, I truly believe with a little work canna lilies are worth the extra time and effort.

Canna lilies aren’t true lilies, in fact their closest plant relations are the gingers (Zingiberaceae) and bananas (Musaceae). Canna lilies are rhizomatous, will grow almost anywhere (okay, so maybe invasive isn’t totally incorrect) and perform their best when regularly divided.

While all canna lilies have a tropical feel to them, there are so many variations in color that you might find it hard to pick just one, especially when you consider canna lilies have leaf colors ranging from green to red to variegated, and flowers ranging from pastel pinks and yellows to fluorescent reds and oranges. If the varieties that regularly hit 6’ are a little more than you can handle then there are verities that top out at a more respectable 4’.

BUGS

Let’s address the ‘bug magnet’ issue. Yes, grasshoppers, slugs, snails and beetles are going to view your canna lily as an early Christmas present when they first sprout in early Spring. The grasshoppers will eat from the outside of the leaf towards the center, the beetles will chew enormous holes in the middle of your leaves and the slugs and snails will turn the leaves to mush and leave pretty little silver trails all over your plants. There is no way to sugar coat it, at this point your canna lily is going to look like it just went through a hurricane (are you rushing out to buy one yet?). 

There are a few options available to you to help combat the bugs. While I recommend an organic solution to a garden problem more often than not, in this instance I cry chemical solution loud and clear. My favorite product is Fertilome Tree and Shrub Drench. The active chemical in this product is ‘imidacloprid’ and it basically works as a poison. Following the directions carefully you mix the product with water and then you spread the mix around the bottom of the plant, just like you would if you were watering. The roots of the plant absorb the mixture and it spreads throughout the entire plant over the course of about two weeks. From that point on anything that bites or sucks at the leaves will die. The label tells you that it will last for about 6-12 months however I have found that using it first thing in the Spring and then towards the end of the Summer gives my plants the best protection.  

Of course, if you are a staunch supporter of organic solutions then I would recommend a preventative program using a mixture of organic sprays. You will need a contact spray for the grasshoppers and beetles, an oil based product such as Neem to suffocate any sap suckers and beer traps for the slugs and snails (note to self - post blog about beer traps). Using organics won’t stop the damage occurring but if you keep to a regular schedule you can minimize it. 

MESSY 

Are canna lilies a messy plant? Yup, they most certainly are. Canna lilies can flower impressively and extensively and as the flowers fade they will drop to the ground and require you to spend some time picking them all up. Also, even with the use of chemical and/or organic sprays you will still have to remove damaged leaves as wind and sun can burn the leaf edges. Bottom line, even though it sounds like a lot of work, I still consider canna lilies as only requiring moderate maintenance.  

INVASIVE 

I prefer the phrase ‘easy to grow’ (there is your first clue). Anyone can grow a canna lily (there is your second clue) and be successful at it. Canna lilies do spread quickly (last and final clue) and unless you are trying to fill a large garden bed with nothing but canna lilies you will need to divide them every other year.

WHERE TO PLANT 

Canna lilies will grow beautifully in a full sun position however they are susceptible to burn along the leaf edges, so if possible pick a spot that gets a little shade in the afternoon. This will help cut down on the time spent removing damaged leaves. 

Canna lilies are one of those plants that both love water and are drought resistant. You can plant canna lilies in a boggy area and they will thrive. You can plant them in an area that drains easily and as long as you throw a little water their way every so often, they will thrive. Of course, I recommend regular watering to establish a strong root system but let’s be honest, I have been known to go three or four weeks between watering and they still look fabulous.  

I am the fertilizer Queen. I may forget to water, weed, divide and spray but I never forget to fertilize. Well fertilized plants grow faster, look healthier, flower better, and winter over easier. Canna lilies will do fine without fertilizer but add a little fertilizer in the Spring when they first emerge and then fertilize again in mid-Summer (if fertilizing in Summer use an organic to prevent fertilizer burn) and you will notice the difference.  

Hopefully I have inspired at least one person to try a canna lily, because let’s be honest, only one of you needs to grow one, the rest of us can just wait until next Spring and take one of your fifty canna lily babies.

Independent vs. Big Box

There are few similarities between a big box store and an independent nursery. Many of the differences are hotly debated, especially in the instance of a big box store moving into an area and ultimately leading to the smaller independent store/s having to close. I don’t wish to be a part of that debate; however I would like to talk about the differences for the ‘customer’ when shopping at both of these locations. I spent more than four years working in a nursery in a big box store and I am coming up to five years working in a nursery for an independent owner, so my opinions are based on experience, not opinions from a second hand source.

Big Box Store Benefits 

Savings 

The first benefit to shopping in a big box store is obvious; savings. When it comes to a benefit it’s hard to find one that is more important to anyone than the bottom line. Even in a good economy most of us are hyper aware of the money we spend, and even when we can see the value in increasing the curb appeal of our home, the bottom line will still sway most of us to the less expensive.  

Example: you can purchase an old fashioned Hosta an independent for around $10.00. In a big box store you can purchase the same Hosta for around $7.00.  

Convenience 

Big box stores have the amazing ability to pop up in exactly the most convenient place possible. There is a reason for this, hundreds and perhaps even thousands of hours are spent years before the store is even built, to find the perfect location for the new store. There are whole teams of people involved in this and it’s not a job that the team takes lightly because the right spot can make or break a business.  

Example: I can hit eight big box stores selling plants within a 5 mile radius of my home. There is only one independent nursery within the same distance.  

One Stop Shopping 

Ah yes, you need a petunia to replace the one that your dog just ate, however you also need a pair of blue socks, a banana, a bottle of moisturizer and a tin of dog food (that’s why your petunia was eaten). Sure, you could run around to two or three of your favorite stores but unless you are lucky enough to have a very flexible schedule, most people will choose to run to the local big box store where they can pick it all up in one place. It’s not lazy, it’s good time management.   

Example: You won’t find blue socks at many independent nurseries.  

 

Independent Nursery Benefits:

Customer Service 

This is not to say that there isn't anyone working at a big box store that don't have a passion for plants, but the majority of the time it's just not the case. People who work in independent stores live and breathe the products every day because they have a passion for it. Many of them have worked in that industry for years and many of them have studied extensively for their chosen career. Added to that, most independent nurseries have programs and classes for their employees to keep them up to date with the latest plants, associated products and trends. If you want to purchase a tree, know what amendments to purchase to plant the tree, be informed of possible insect and disease susceptibilities, pick a fertilizer based on the type of tree and also be able to discuss different types of mulch and their benefits, then the independent nursery is the place to go.  

Example: In most cases the same associate can take you through the whole process themselves.  

Product Knowledge 

What if you don’t want to just buy the perfect fertilizer? What if you want to know what it is made from, what the active ingredient actually is, want to know how it will react with other products you are currently using, want to know about its effects on the environment or your pets, want to know about the company that makes it and how long the product has been on the market? Well, the independent nursery associate has to know these things and not just because it’s our job, but because it matters.  

Example: We aren’t just trained in our products, we make sure to be aware of other products on the market, even if we don’t carry them.

After Sales Service

Ah yes, the 1 year guarantee. It sounds brilliant and gives you a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that no matter what happens to your annual/perennial/shrub/tree, you can bring it back for a full refund.  Knowing your investment is safe is a big incentive to shop at a big box store. But what about the people who want to know WHY their plant died? I’ll be honest, not everyone cares what happens to their plant if they know they can just get another one, but for true gardeners the WHY is half the fun. There are so many reasons that a plant may not survive and being able to find out why means that your replacement will spend many happy years in your garden. And admit it, it is an amazing feeling to look at something growing and be able to say ‘I did that’. Independent Nurseries have their own warranty rules but they are based on knowledge of plants and the understanding that their associates will arm the customer with all the knowledge they need at the time of purchase to make them successful.  

Example: I for one cannot grow African Violets, not even when I follow the experts’ rules to the letter, even after instruction by a veteran houseplant associate of 38 years they still hate me, so I have moved on. I prefer a warranty that challenges me to learn more and do better, but will still protect me should I try another African Violet.

In the end I believe that a mix of ‘big box store’ and ‘independent’ nursery is the best way to keep your budget in line and your plants happy.  

If you are a gardener who is familiar with the plant you wish to purchase, then it’s a great idea to see if you can find it at a big box store. Knowing the plant and its requirements mean that you can spot a healthy plant and know that it is a good investment. In this instance your bottom line is simply cost and it’s what the big box stores are known for.   

If you are a gardener who is purchasing the same fertilizer or bug spray that you have been using for years then the big box store is the way to go. You are already familiar with the product and how to use it correctly. Cost is the only issue here and nobody can be blamed for watching their dollars.  

If you are not familiar with a plant, but you saw it somewhere and you just have to have it then it’s time to visit the independent nursery. You are the kind of customer that we love. Your enthusiasm at trying something new is why we got into the retail side of plants in the first place. We will talk to you until the cows come home, making sure you know everything about the plant and are confident that you can keep it happy for many years to come.  

If you have a problem with your plant, any problem at all, then it’s the independent nursery. If you can’t bring the plant, bring photos and 9 times out of 10 we can tell you what is wrong and what, if anything, can be done. That 1 time out of 10 is simply to cover me for people who have an ‘African Violet’ moment.  

Want to go where ‘everybody knows your name’? I have so many regulars, and even when I can’t remember their name (I am terrible with names) the first words out of my mouth will be something along the lines of ‘how is your Buddleja doing’? No, I may not remember your name, but I remember the last plant you purchased and I really do want to know how it’s doing.  

Have an entire garden bed that needs to be landscaped? Your whole yard is a nightmare and you just don’t know where to start? The independent nursery wins again. Many independent nurseries have landscape services, but landscape services are not exactly budget friendly. I personally, as do many of my counterparts at other independents, do free landscape plans for customers who have the drive and the love of a good garden but just don’t have the budget. I can’t tell you how many customers have hugged me at the end of a project and said ‘I couldn’t have done it without you’.

And that, I think is the bottom line of any independent nursery, we want that personal connection with our customers and the personal gratification that a job well done brings not just to us, but to the customer.

Deter Deer

It must be said that next to rabbits, deer are the most common complaint I hear about from customers when it comes to garden pests. I used to associate garden pests with slugs, aphids and the like, however since moving to the US I have found that there are so many larger ‘pests’ that gardeners must learn to coexist with.

We have an abundance of wooded areas here and even in the smallest of areas deer thrive. Of course, as their habitat is made smaller and smaller by urban sprawl they must learn to adapt, and one of the ways they adapt is to graze on the beautiful gardens we all work so hard to create.

I must admit, when a deer sees a beautifully cultivated garden, they must look at it in the same way we would look at the buffet at the local Golden Corral. I don’t blame them for not only seeing it as a buffet, but also treating it like one, grazing until they are so full they have to unbutton their pants. I also see it as a compliment, although bragging to your neighbors that your garden is the ‘best buffet in town’ seems counter-productive.

There are very few truly ‘deer proof’ plants, and unless your vision of the perfect garden contains a selection of cactus and yucca, you will have to compromise somewhere. There are sprays, electric fences, lighting packages and noise machines, all promising to keep the deer away from your prized roses, but I have found that a determined enough deer will survive an electric shock with a smile on his face, for the chance to eat every single rose flower on your rosebush.

Thanks to feedback from customers, friends and neighbors I have a selection of plants that have been found to work very well for most gardens frequented by deer. Of course, if your deer are of the super stealth variety you may want to reconsider the cactus and yucca garden after all.

The full list is quite large, but I have selected a small number of plants of different types that have a beauty to them, either through flowers, foliage color, berries or structure.

Of course, this list isn’t a guarantee that these plants will survive your deer, but it’s nice to have recommendations from people who have tried them and had success!

 

VINES

Clematis Armandii, Wisteria, Pyracantha.

GROUNDCOVERS

Aegopodium, Cotoneaster, Convallaria (Lily of the Valley), Ajuga, Hypericum.

TREES

Crepe Myrtle, Magnolia, Mimosa, Cotinus (Smoke Tree).

ANNUALS

Ageratum, Celosia, Foxglove, Heliotrope, Portulaca.

HERBS

Lavender, Germander, Rosemary, Rue, Catmint, Chamomile.

TREES/SHRUBS

Daphne, Oleander, Quince, Spirea, Weigela, Buddleja (Butterfly Bush).

PERENNIALS

Coreopsis, Hellebore (Christmas Rose/Lenten Rose), Columbine, Scabiosa, Monarda (Bee Balm), Japanese Anemone, Candytuft, Creeping Phlox, Echinacea (Coneflower), Stachys (Lamb’s Ears).

Daylilies

Daylilies have been called the ‘Perfect Perennial’ and sometimes, on days when I don’t have to clean and deadhead 200 of them, I think they just might be.

There are so many varieties to choose from, and most Garden Centers carry a good selection of varieties, whether they sell them in bulbs, fans, plants or all three. The varieties and colors available mean that anyone, even the fussiest of gardeners can find a home in their landscape for one.  

Once I started work in the US I became hyper aware of daylilies. They are a staple for any Garden Center and most customers who purchase them do so because they are either already in love with them or they fell in love with them after seeing one in someone else’s garden. There are societies devoted to them, blogs all about them, collectors who just have to have them and people like me, who thrown into the deep end, had to learn as much as possible, as fast as possible. 

You can read books from Sunday to Monday about daylilies. You can search online and find hundreds, if not thousands of sites, telling you how to take care of them, but ultimately I have found that each person I talk to takes care of them in their own unique way. What works for one person, doesn’t always work for another, and while there are many different ways to keep daylilies happy, there is one practice I find works wonders all across the board for daylily lovers.

Many times customers come to me and ask me why their re-blooming daylily doesn’t re-bloom, or if it does, it has a poor showing. They have issues with their daylily getting yellow leaves and looking tired after extended periods of warm and/or humid weather. They see stunning pictures of daylilies with captions like ‘low maintenance’ or ‘easy care’ and want to know why their daylily hates them and keeps trying to shame them in front of their neighbors.  

There is a fabulous little system I use on my own daylilies and it keeps them looking amazing from Spring until late Fall. Be warned, this is not what the books and the experts tell you to do, but it works, so as far as I am concerned, the books and the experts should be the ones paying attention.  

Even if you don’t have a re-blooming daylily you can still follow these steps. It will keep your daylilies looking fresh and new throughout the year, and later in the Fall when many daylilies are looking tired and run down, yours will look as fresh and happy as the day you bought them. 

When your daylily first starts emerging in the Spring, fertilize it as you usually would. I always recommend organic products where possible – better for the environment, better for us and better for your plants. Also, for those of us that can get a little heavy handed, the likelihood of burning your plant is minimal.

As it grows remove the leaves that naturally turn yellow and also clean any excess leaves around the base of the plant, this keeps the air moving around the plant and lessens the chances of insects and fungus that thrive in moist airless environments.  


As your daylily starts to form its buds fertilize again. The bulbs have stored plenty of nutrition from last year but what I am asking you to do a little later will require your daylily to rely on the stored nutrients heavily, so replacing them is very important. As your daylily flowers, remove spend flowers and once each head of flowers has finished, remove the stalk as low down into the plant as you can manage.

Once your daylily has finished flowering I want you to arm yourself with a dose of confidence and a sharp pair of pruners, take a deep breath, squash down that little voice that is screaming ‘no’ at you, and give your daylily a super haircut. And by super I mean cut it back to about 1.5” above the ground. Once you have apologized to your now bald daylily, take a few minutes to clean out the old and brown leaves that tend to form clumps in the middle of your plant.

I want you to fertilize your daylily again but I also want you to add a tablespoon of phosphate (I use Super Triple Phosphate by Fertilome). Give your daylily a good dose of water and then all you have to do is sit back and wait for your daylily to grow. You would think that it would take months for your daylily to grow back, but in actuality you will see good growth in as little as two weeks.

If you have a re-bloomer then you can expect this round of flowers to be as impressive, or close to it, as your first round of flower. If you don’t have a re-bloomer you may be surprised as some varieties will bloom again – although not always as profusely as the first time. Some just will not flower again, but it is a great way to get a beautiful looking plant, with strong new green leaves.

For the re-bloomers this practice can be repeated again after the next blooming period, just remember to fertilize again, with both your regular fertilizer and the phosphate each time.

I am including some photos of one of my daylilies before and after it received the haircut of it's life. This daylily is not known for its repeat flowers but two out of three years I have had a second, smaller round of flowers. Even without the flowers my daylily still looks as green and happy at Halloween as it did in late March when it first started to grow.

If this seems a little extreme I understand. Occasionally when I am talking to a customer about how to make their daylilies happy they are right with me until I get to the haircut, and then they look at me like I have quite possibly lost my mind. The horror in their faces would be amusing except for the fact that their feet have subconsciously turned to run from me, as if just speaking about it out loud might cause their daylilies to wither and die. 

Be brave… gardening should be fun, it should be an experiment and it should be an adventure. Challenge yourself to try something new!

In all its glory - March 2012

Cut back - June 15th, 2012

Two weeks later - June 30th, 2012

 

August 22nd - six stalks/23 buds total.